Hayk

iTrader: (1)

I need to replace the all hard lines going to the back along with repairing or replacing the gas tank due to rust and leaks. I’ve never done this and have a lot of questions.


Hard Lines
I was considering making NiCopp lines for durability as the factory ones are not coated. Are the brake lines 3/16”? What about the fuel and EVAP lines?

Fittings
What is the thread size? Does Lexus sell just the fittings or do most people reuse originals? Are aftermarket fittings durable?

Flaring Tool
I don’t have a bench vice for the nicer tool so I’m considering going with the portable cheap model that can be found at Harbor Freight and elsewhere. Is it adequate for this job or should I plan for something else?

Mounting Points
The threaded studs that hold the brake lines along the bottom of the car have fused with the rusted nuts and broken off. Are there DIY solutions to resecuring the lines without having a welder?

For anyone who’s done hard lines, are there anything else I should consider?

LeX2K

3/16" is correct I don't know what the fuel lines are. I always re-use the factory fittings aftermarket ones are poor quality the inner diameter is not consistent. A cheap flaring tool will drive you nuts get a high quality one hopefully someone can recommend a kit.

NiCopp is the way to go very easy to bend. Have you considered getting a shop to do this? Doing this job without a lift is quite challenging and frustrating.

Arsenii

Hello,

Long time no see.

Just measured the fuel line, it is about 8mm or 5/16in diameter.

Done that before, it was not fun with the car on jack stands, at least I had the rear subframe completely removed. I got the Eastwood bench-mounted tool, works great, no issues observed, aside from the fact that it is a bit cumbersome.

Recently stumbled across SUR & R company, they seem to make a number of specialty tools, and they do seem good quality, even though I haven't seen them in person. HFT50 seems like a solid tool, but for the price, I would honestly get any kind of table with used vice and a tabletop unit. That said, either one will make your life a whole lot easier than using any regular style tool out there.

That same company makes the lines with nuts already crimped onto the line, avoiding the need of a flaring tool altogether, though you will need to get creative with the routing if the line ends up being too long, and get a whole new piece if it is too short.

As for the nuts themselves, reusing them is an option, however your seem to be quite rusted, some may not even come out in one piece. SUR & R makes them as well, though they are a bit pricey. Würth also makes them as well, here is a link, it is a reputable company, so I would expect the quality to be on par, at least better than average.

While at it, I would also highly suggest to get All the holders for the lines, one half will turn to vapor the moment you touch them, the other half is likely snapped or missing already. Here is a Parts Catalogue showing all the pieces that hold the lines.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

LeX2K

If possible head to a help yourself salvage yard and grab some fittings from under the hood.

Arsenii

Actually just realized one thing, the lines currently in the car are in fact Metric, they are 5mm even, while 3/16in is about 4.76mm, it's a pretty considerable jump for a tolerance, and it may have its own consequences, aftermarket fittings are designed to work with Inferior ... Imperial lines even if they have a Metric thread, so I would suggest getting aftermarket fittings here, just make sure to get the good ones..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

LeX2K

I've used standard 3/16" NiCopp line with the factory fittings without issue. Diameter doesn't have to be exact since the ends are flared to spec.