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Flange nut comes loose very easily with this exhaust. I correct by using Nord lock washers on my GSF with invidia exhaust and has not come loose since, even after track day. Take a look at this thread for more guidance. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...ing-a-cel.html
You should not need o2 sensor spacers for the Invidia exhaust or any cat back exhaust for our car.... It's completely not needed.
It's either not sealed or aligned properly or the o2 sensor is damaged. It's not going to be anything else. Many folks have issues with the Invidia flange. The way invidia did their flanges are stupid but we have many posts addressing the issues. Grimmspeed and copper sealant worked for me ( I used the double thickness gaskets). Make sure things are torqued properly and aligned properly. Other than that unless you are doing the install or physically looking/checking stuff you are at the mercy of whoever is looking over the car.
You should not need o2 sensor spacers for the Invidia exhaust or any cat back exhaust for our car.... It's completely not needed.
It's either not sealed or aligned properly or the o2 sensor is damaged. It's not going to be anything else. Many folks have issues with the Invidia flange. The way invidia did their flanges are stupid but we have many posts addressing the issues. Grimmspeed and copper sealant worked for me ( I used the double thickness gaskets). Make sure things are torqued properly and aligned properly. Other than that unless you are doing the install or physically looking/checking stuff you are at the mercy of whoever is looking over the car.
-Nigel
Appreciate it! It actually was a bad O2 sensor…we checked it so many times and it “looked” fine, but hey, problem solved finally!
Glad you got it sorted. It's fairly common to get the wires twisted up in a bind during installation. That would throw off signals enough to trigger a code. I twist them backwards so that when they are screwed into the exhaust, the wires are then in a 'neutral' position. Disconnecting the harness is probably the safest option, but who has time to fish wires up into the interior?
As the title says, ugh...nothing but issues since I started messing with this thing. The car runs amazingly so I just don't get it...are these newer vehicles that sensitive?! I had to get the windshield replaced due to it breaking on my way to Dallas...no idea how, didn't hear anything, just saw a huge crack. Then right before I put it in the shop, the check engine light came back on....again. Prior to this I got the check engine light when I put the intake on...got that fixed...then when I put the Invidia exhaust on, so I put the suggested thicker gasket on it and all was good until now. I've called Invidia and they said they've never heard of these issues before...even though all you have to do is google it lol. So, now the shop says it's the catalytic converter, which I got that code & O2 sensors when I installed the exhaust & we knew that couldn't be the case. So tired of messing with this thing. I bought it in Oct 2023 and really haven't even enjoyed it due to the constant CEL coming on. I just want no CEL and to enjoy the damn thing! Any suggestions are very welcome...thanks in advance!
Wrong size flange on the Invidia. Nothing more, nothing less. Some have had success stacking gaskets and applying exhaust RTV. Others, like myself, have not.
Mine go the point where I drove around with an ODBII scanner plugged in and cleared the codes through my phone as they occurred.
Back to a gutted factory midpipe and no CEL’s. Shame on Invidia for manufacturing with the wrong flange. And a bigger shame on the vendors who sell it.
^^^ what they said about putting the RTV silicone on and around the seal to see if it helps. I have had mine on since July of 2022 with the original gaskets provided by Invidia and have driven a good 15k+ miles with no CEL…yet.
Have you consider trying the nord washer? The nuts are no longer coming loose for me and triggering the code for me. I have probably done 5k miles since and a track day. You can also use the locktite threadlocker that is more or less permanent. I don't remember the locktite number at the moment.
I installed mine with double thickness Grimm speed gaskets. And used rtv copper sealant for good measure. No cel.
I did make sure that it was aligned and not a skew. Then slowly torqued everything to spec from front to back.
This was what it looked like after install.
Louie posted a video on the gasket issue with using and OEM crush gasket. It's not the correct one for the Invidia. I can't see how anyone would make that work and the slightest shift would be asking for a leak. I will note that a LOT of issues are in fact people having "pro/reputable" shops install the exhaust. If it's anything like how most places install stuff, they aren't doing it right or taking the time to properly align everything. They are just bolting stuff on. With how easy this exhaust is to put on/take-off, I don't understand why one wouldn't at least attempt it. The longest part of the install is making sure the o2 wires aren't all twisted and turned about. And the middle under chassis brace to be removed (only because it's got a bunch of bolts). Other than that, the exhaust itself is literally something like 12 total bolts... (10 if you don't count the axle back spring bolts, because it's pretty much impossible to mess those up).
IDEALLY what one could do is cut the flanges off a spare mid pipe and have someone weld those onto the exhaust pipes for the Invidia. Then you would use an OEM crush gasket and never have to worry about a leak. V-bands might even work as well? I will note that there are other manufactures that use a non-crush gasket unlike the OEM style... but I believe those are 2.5" which makes it way easier. Why Invidia used 3"? Who knows?! At this price point one can't expect 100%. I think it excels in most things that check the box for an exhaust. S/S, isn't some ridiculous price, has WELDED exhaust tips (sorry but the clamp-on tips look so tacky/AutoZone to me), fitment is good in terms of literally bolting up. Con... the flange size. To me that's a small thing where it's been documented many times on what to do to address the issue. Would it help if everyone started blasting Invidia for them to change the flange size? I guess we could try, but i suspect nothing would happen.
If this was a $3k+ exhaust, I'd expect zero issues. But at around $1,400 and considering it has more pros than cons one has to figure out what they are willing to deal with.... Hell, the Borla axle back is $1,600 and that has freaking clamps on two little stupid pieces that bolt onto the midpipe.. then factor in more money to get the cat back version and you will have to have someone weld it... you are approaching the $3k mark. The Invidia does surprisingly give you a decent value for what you are getting.
No cel after 2 years for me. I made a robust post about this. Probably can search for it. A lot of people giving advice and have never even set eyes on what the problem is because they are having shops do the work. In my opinion, thicker gaskets are not the solution. You have to accommodate for factory the donut style gasket. I suggest copper rtv and letting cure for 24h before driving.
First code was P013A – O2 Sensor Slow Response – Rich to Lean Bank 1 Sensor 2
Replaced the gaskets with Vibrant gaskets, made sure everything was centered properly, and now getting a different code:
P013C - O2 Sensor Slow Response - Rich to Lean Bank 2 Sensor 2
What should I try next?
Try replacing the sensors at this point. On older posts with the slow response codes, it was due to the wires being tightly twisted causing damage. The trick is to be careful then back twist the wires so that they are in a neutral position once the sensor is threaded in place.
With the new ones, install them in the exhaust and then run the wires up into the cabin to connect.
Try replacing the sensors at this point. On older posts with the slow response codes, it was due to the wires being tightly twisted causing damage. The trick is to be careful then back twist the wires so that they are in a neutral position once the sensor is threaded in place.
With the new ones, install them in the exhaust and then run the wires up into the cabin to connect.
The reason why I don't think it's the sensors is the first error code was on the passenger side sensor and now it's on the driver's side. If the sensors were damaged during installation wouldn't the passenger side still be throwing a code?
01-19-24, 11:35 AM
