Kira X

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for those links man!

I thought they used to be 1,000 RMS but the 13" W7 is 1,500 watts. My friend said you would need a 2,000 watt RMS amp to handle that thing.

I plan on keeping it turned down most of the time. My current 500 watt setup isn't as loud as it was in my SC so I figured I might as well triple the power.

You're right about the hearing aids. Back in high school my friend had a crazy sound system in his truck and everyone said he started having trouble hearing stuff after a few months of blasting rap music.

eggtart

Question: have you been in a car with a pair of true 1000w subwoofers? I suspect that you will have more bass than you are bargaining for. Just because you can get a 1000w system for x amount of money doesnt mean you should.

Two 1000w 12" subs in the trunk is going to completely overpower the factory mids and tweets in the cabin. In order to keep a nice balance of sound, you will find yourself barely utilizing the potential of your subs. How much bass is too much bass is a completely subjective matter, but that is something you can discuss in the CL audio forums.

You say that you would rather have a 1000 watt system and plan never crank it up to it's full potential, in hopes that you will never strain your electrical system. My friend, that sounds like a big waste of money.

Hypothetically, let's say that your car's electrical strains when a 250watt amp is blasting a sub at full power. Blasting a 250watt amp at max levels or a 1000watt amp at minimal levels is going to put the same amount of strain on your electrical system. Now if we are talking about not wanting to strain the subwoofer and amp themselves, then the story is different. But your main concern appears to be your car's electrical system

I suspect you will be more than happy with the bass output of a single 12" subwoofer matched with a 300-500 watt amp. JL slash series amps are excellent choices as they have automatic turn-on sensing. Meaning that they turn on and off automatically when an input signal is sensed. This will save you the time of finding a source of and running a +12v trigger wire. I have run the JL 500/1 amp in a 04 Range Rover HSE and 05 BMW 745i with zero electrical issues. The LS430 will have no problems.

Also, we have not even begun to access the massive amount of RATTLING a pair of 1000watt subwoofers will induce on your car. As padded and luxurious the LS430 is, it is no match for the air pressure levels produced by subs being pushed with that much power. At the minimum, you will need additional sound deadening for the trunk lid.

I also suggest that you remove the factory sub in the rear deck lid and frame it out with a nice mesh covering so that air (i.e. sound) can pass from the enclosed trunk to the cabin.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

thanks man ^^^

you are probably correct, the system will probably be more then I really need, but ive sourced a great set of speakers for a great price, so I might as well throw them in.

If it is too much bass, I will just swap one of them out, and stick with a 500W RMS set up, which will probably be fine.

Im the first to admit I know nothing about audio set ups , this is my very first time installing aftermarket anything, but I also know that if I pay for a weak set up its only a matter of time before I want an upgrade.

My audio guys have also told me that they will be removing the stock wofer, to allow more bass into the cabin, they have also , like you, said this set up is going to be on the extreme end of things.

eggtart

I was under the impression you were planning on installing the setup yourself? Or are you sourcing components yourself and dropping off at a shop for install?

eggtart

another question: Do you simply want A LOT of bass or a a lot of CLEAN bass?

Did you find the factory sub to be lacking in the HIT category or the BOOOOOM category?

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

most definitely having a shop install it, I don't know the first thing about electrical , but yea I decided to source my own components , for the same price of a 250W cerwin vega set up and a 300 W amp, I got a 1000W Kaption audio set up with a 1000W Fosgate amp monoblock, I think I did pretty good.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

To be honest I thought the factory sub was turned off or something, cause from the front seat I could barely hear any bass coming from it, then I went to the backseat and realized it was working fine.

but then a good reggae song came on that I liked and I turned the bass up and the volume and it blew , it just rattles and crackles now, my audio guy told me they are notorious for that happening.

I just want something with some heavy clean bass, I think Il have that with this new set up

kenshimoto

yur setup is good man... u's a bass junkie . its good to have more bass then none. if its too much, just turn down the gains

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Ok , I finally got my set up installed, so far it shows no issues at all, no dimming of lights, weird electric issues of any kind , I also have to say this seriously THUMPS!!

This is a pretty high power budget set up, I will recommend to any of you looking to keep costs down, this 1200W Hifonics Brutus amp, I paid only $150.00 plus tax and shipping, it works amazing and comes with a boost controller that I have set up under my dash, as well as a 1 year warrantee, im very impressed.

Anyways im posting because I want to set up an IPOD or MP3 player to my deck, but I don't see any input anywhere, does anyone know what I need to do to get one hooked up?

Im now burning cd's but I really don't want to go this route for much longer, thanks guys

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

is ur car a ul? wish they made a box to fit behind the pass through so u can get some more space.

im in progress of overhauling my audio too. new speakers all around and a box behind the rear seats.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

yes man I know exactly what you mean, that lump, it really kills any chance of fitting a box back there, also im in Canada we have different kind of trims, tbh im not sure what I have, but yea I have the pass through ,gps nav, no air shocks.

Kira and the other guys have the right idea, if I could do it all over again id do with one of those JL super high power single woofers, it would save a ton of space.

But I cant complain, I pieced together a 1000W RMS system for around $550.00, ive lost about half or more of my trunk space though.

username32

My ML woofer is blown as well, I was going to drop this in the factory opening and run them in series to make it 16ohm compatible for the factory ML amp. The OEM one is ridiculously expensive even at dealer cost.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331089965172?redirect=mobile

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

that was my very first idea as well, but trust me man, putting in another 10 inch woofer there with no box and no amp upgrade ur not going to see any power difference, and it will cost u hundreds of dollars.

just do it the first time, get a box and a high power sub, and remove the stock sub so u have more room for the base to enter your cabin, might as well do it properly

and yes those ML subs are ,,,pffffffffffttt

username32

I been in a LS with a perfectly working ML audio and it sounds good enough for me, I just prefer not to put a ding in my trunk space with a stupid sub box, UL mode!s like mine already come with a significantly smaller trunk then the std models so space is at a premium. This car is primarily going to be used for road trips so trunk space hogs are a no no.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

fair enough man, id just suggest then getting a better name brand woofer, that's all, good luck