LS430 Brake Pad Replacement w/ Photos
10-12-10, 10:07 AM
#61
Just replaced the rear last night and holy smokes. Can it be any easier. I spent more time lifting the car, securing, and removing the wheel than the actual pad replacement job. I did both sides in 25 min. from start to finish. 25 min to save $330 (what dealer wanted for rear job) was crazy.
To think how easy this is and then to think of the old school brake shoes that I used to replace on my old minivan... wow...
The only thing I would add to the writeup is that Todd's sensor was broken so he just yanked it out I presume. If your sensors are still good, there is a small metal clip that holds the sensor down. use a small screw flathead screw driver and it pops right out, then the sensor is loose by itself.
Great writeup and super job by Toyota designing this like this. I wonder if any other Toyota/Lexus vehicles have these calipers.
To think how easy this is and then to think of the old school brake shoes that I used to replace on my old minivan... wow...
The only thing I would add to the writeup is that Todd's sensor was broken so he just yanked it out I presume. If your sensors are still good, there is a small metal clip that holds the sensor down. use a small screw flathead screw driver and it pops right out, then the sensor is loose by itself.
Great writeup and super job by Toyota designing this like this. I wonder if any other Toyota/Lexus vehicles have these calipers.
10-12-10, 07:17 PM
#63
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i had my local service station throw a set of wagner ThermoQuiet pads. with these pads, the backing plate is integrated into the pads, so the installation is even simpler. the whole job took like 10 minutes over just rotating the tires. these pads go for ~40 on amazon for front and rears, plus there is a $30 rebate on parts and $20 on installation costs currently. that's about as cheap as it gets. so far, I can't tell the difference between ThermoQuiet and oem. silent and plenty of bite
10-13-10, 02:05 AM
#64
Pole Position
[quote=Vpanin;5559442]
It's not normal,but it's not something to worry about either. From factory the discs have countersunk bolts attaching the discs to the hubs on each corner. The discs are free floating,and held true to the hubs by the road wheel when it's fitted.
Justin...
It's not normal,but it's not something to worry about either. From factory the discs have countersunk bolts attaching the discs to the hubs on each corner. The discs are free floating,and held true to the hubs by the road wheel when it's fitted.
Justin...
11-17-10, 04:50 PM
#66
After replacing the wheels and properly hand tightening them, I took a drive to "bed" in the brakes and check proper operation. No issues and brakes worked like a charm.
Tips- Use the right tools. Take your time. Work cleanly. Work safely.
When installing the front pads, and compressing the pistons, I used an old pad to apply pressure to push the pistons into the caliper equally. Pushing in on them individually only caused the other piston to push out.
No major headaches, and after changing countless pads in a variety of vehicles over the past 25 years I have to say this is the easiest pad replacement I have ever done.
Pads purchased from Iron Toad.
If I think of anything else, I'll edit. Hope someone finds this as useful as I did the other posts on the subject.
Todd
Tips- Use the right tools. Take your time. Work cleanly. Work safely.
When installing the front pads, and compressing the pistons, I used an old pad to apply pressure to push the pistons into the caliper equally. Pushing in on them individually only caused the other piston to push out.
No major headaches, and after changing countless pads in a variety of vehicles over the past 25 years I have to say this is the easiest pad replacement I have ever done.
Pads purchased from Iron Toad.
If I think of anything else, I'll edit. Hope someone finds this as useful as I did the other posts on the subject.
Todd
11-26-10, 04:52 PM
#67
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another satisfied customer!!!
What a breeze, took longer to rotate my tires... did jack my jack with all the jacking... apparently the jacks are not lexus quality... anyway. Was surprised that the sensors are only front and rear PASSENGER SIDE ONLY...I was dipping into the wear indicators but not through or tripped. Last year, the dealer said I was at 20%...must have been more as it took a year. Was confused about the brake grease and used very little thinking I did not want it oozing on the calipers. I also used a screwdriver to push in the front double pistons. I would push in one and then use the pliers to lock it in place while I pushed the other in. The rears are single piston. Thanks for the great thread!!! And to IRONTOAD for a quick turnaround.
All is well and drives like a charm... now to tackle the actuator and find a new jack.... Oh, and I have an oil leak of some type....
All is well and drives like a charm... now to tackle the actuator and find a new jack....
Oh, and I have an oil leak of some type....
Last edited by stropp; 11-26-10 at 05:34 PM.
12-01-10, 07:21 PM
#70
Not sure
Unless the OP can chime in with what was done there. Perhaps it was to do something else I'm not aware of, but as I said... I didn't use a C-clamp for anything.
01-16-11, 07:00 PM
#72
Driver
Thread Starter
Not sure, I did both without a C-clamp at all. I think the OP is using that to compress the brakes sensor to then remove. Honestly, don't know why as I used an alligator plier and removed the clip that holds the sensor in, then slid the sensor right off.
Unless the OP can chime in with what was done there. Perhaps it was to do something else I'm not aware of, but as I said... I didn't use a C-clamp for anything.
Unless the OP can chime in with what was done there. Perhaps it was to do something else I'm not aware of, but as I said... I didn't use a C-clamp for anything.
01-16-11, 07:56 PM
#74
Pole Position
No,there aren't any points on the callipers that require greasing.
As for the clip/G clamp application,you can also use a flat bladed screwdriver and the old pad to press back the pistons. do one side of each calliper at a time as the opposing pistons can sometimes push back out if you try and press in the opposite side without a pad in place.
Justin...
As for the clip/G clamp application,you can also use a flat bladed screwdriver and the old pad to press back the pistons. do one side of each calliper at a time as the opposing pistons can sometimes push back out if you try and press in the opposite side without a pad in place.
Justin...
01-24-11, 04:10 AM
#75
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Dealer says I am at 6mm front and rear - suggests we will need to do front / rear brakes at next (60K) service - wants $800 to do the brakes. That (plus the pictures in this thread) was my motivation to order parts from irontoad. Now just need to get up the nerve to replace the pads.